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| Michael's Kitchen |
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Its not often that you are truly surpised by how good a meal is, but at Michael’s Kitchen at The Old School I can honestly say that it was easily the finest meal I have ever had, and quite possibly finest meal full stop.
It is easy to forget that the chef holds a Michelin star when you enter the restaurant, not least because the menu has fixed pricing (except the Kobe beef burger, still a snip at 19 pounds), two courses for 19 pounds, or three for 23 pounds. There is also the option of a pre-theatre meal for 15 pounds that includes two courses and a glass of house wine.
Michael’s Kitchen has three generously sized rooms, and the circular main room, with impressive glass domed ceiling has the air of a traditional, all be it sophisticated, Oxford building. As you look around however, it is clear that his is no ordinary setting for a restaurant. Unlike some other premium restaurants, Michael’s Kitchen is a tremendously enjoyable venue. Our waiter told us to relax and enjoy the evening as a lot of work goes into preparing the food.
It is immediately clear that this is no ordinary Thai menu. German influences appear and seem incongruous alongside the Thai dishes. It is soon apparent that the joke is on us. Braised lamb shank is skilfully mixed with truffle mouseline and coconut sauce. The meat gently fell from the bone, subtle well balanced flavours developed on the palette, and then you realise that coconut is a perfect accompaniment to lamb! Who needs mint sauce. For those that want a stunning example of a Thai curry you are directed toward the Thai fish and pineapple curry - a dish so fragrant and fish so perfectly cooked that I was left speechless. It is served in a soapstone pot with rice and a beautiful spoon made from half of a shell so that you can get every last drop. It would be easy to describe all of the other wonderful dishes that Michael’s Kitchen have on offer but the best thing to do would be to try it yourself.
The skill of the chef and the restaurant as a whole, is to bend all manner of eclectic influences and bring them together in a way that you wouldn’t expect to work. Modern art, historic photographs on the wall illustrate the Old School House's history and an enormous clam shell on the bar strangely enough work seamlessly together. Ultimately it is hard to recommend Michael’s Kitchen highly enough. Quite simply it's a combination of premium quality food, reasonable prices, and thoroughly pleasant and intriguing surroundings.
Reviewed by Nathan Wiles |
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