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On a pleasant Saturday evening, the four of us ventured to Malmaison’s basement brasserie in the hotel at the Oxford Castle complex to feast on roast Barbary duck, seared tuna, salmon, steak frites and bangers.
Although we were dining in a ‘grown-up’ environment, our eight and twelve year old kids were made to feel incredibly welcome by the attentive and engaging staff. The brasserie at Malmaison has many faces and can accommodate an intimate dinner for two as well as a private dinner party for twenty in one of the cosy side rooms that flank the main brasserie.
It is also the ideal venue for corporate lunches, where great food combines with style to impress your client or associate.
Following a delightful salmon terrine for Tina and smoked salmon for me, Abi devoured her steak frites in double quick time (not bad going for a little eight year old), and Ed’s bangers certainly satisfied his seemingly unquenchable soon-to-be-teenager's appetite. Tina chose the roast Barbary duck, which was ‘cooked to perfection’, in her own words. I rarely do fish for both my appetizer and main, but the seared tuna I chose was presented immaculately on a simple bed of warm asparagus and green beans.
Part of the attraction of going out to eat is the opportunity to sample fine wines, which is to be had in spades at Malmaison - your choice aided by the watchful eye of sommelier Virgine Thoraval. But this time, given that the kids had tagged along, Tina went with the Virgin Bloody Mary. So I was free to complement my fish with a solitary glass of chilled Petit Chablis.
The desserts were sublime. When ordering our mains, we had been advised to choose the roast pineapple and Malibu soup with coconut ice cream , and it certainly was a perfect way to end a meal which left me feeling fed but not stuffed – ‘replete’ does it. Abi and Tina chose the banana and raspberry bruleés respectively, whilst Ed ended his meal with banana and toffee ice cream.
Although one would never put dining at Malmaison in the economy bracket in terms of cost, it is great value. Kids will be enchanted (if a little scared) by talk of prisoners and bumps in the night which are rumoured in this former castle and prison. Tina's own tales of ghostly sightings as an eleven year old fascinated Abi and Ed and made the experience all the more exciting. Malmaison plays off of the history of the building to create a uniquely chic environment that really works. And that’s why Malmaison has and will keep attracting inquisitive tourists and locals, the stylish, the families and the corporates.
No fuss, just great food, great company, a special setting and excellent service; it’s hard to ask for more.
Reviewed by Richard Rosser
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