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Branca enjoys a fine reputation in Oxford for offering excellent Italian food in a contemporary trattoria setting. A reputation that is well deserved.
Upon entering the high ceilinged reception area, you immediately have the sense that you are somewhere a little special. Behind the unassuming glass exterior, lies a blend of modern and rustic decor, with a lively and bustling atmosphere. An authentic trattoria for sure.
Having entered the chic foyer/bar area, we were escorted to our table in the middle of the restaurant. The dimmed lighting and relaxed dining experience lent a intimate air to the eatery, despite the increasingly number of dinners on a frosty Wednesday evening. After taking our coats, the server promptly took initial drinks orders and listed the evenings specials from memory; no mean feat considering the apparent complexity of the starter and main courses.
Along with the daily specials, the menu offers a comprehensive array of authentic Italian dishes; we eventually did manage to narrow down our the choices to our desired dishes. A notable inclusion to the wine list is the option to have many of the wines served in charmingly named ‘pots’, of roughly half a bottle. An excellent addition when dining during the week.
When our starters arrived they were served with delightful little touches; my platter of San Daniele ham, pistachio mortadella, and fennel salami was served on a wooden wedge, and my companion’s Herb crumbed goats cheese with mixed leaves and roast vegetables came in a simple white bowl.
Our starters finished and 'pot' of Chianti Classico well underway, we eagerly anticipated the main courses of Salmon with squash and spinich (a special) and a Vegetarian goats cheese pizza. Both were full of flavour and undoubtedly excellent examples of Italian cooking. To accompany the mains we ordered New potatoes and Green beans to share, which was easily enough for two and wonderfully seasoned to complement the main dishes.
With our appetites and taste buds thoroughly satisfied we debated the succinct, but perfectly formed, dessert menu. There are a variety of equally tempting options, but we eventually decided on 'sharing' a Lemon tart and three, rather large, scoops of assorted fruit sorbet. The Lemon tart was easily one of the best examples I have tasted, expertly balancing the sweet and sour flavors. The sorbets were also fine examples of the dessert, exerting delicate and real fruit flavours.
All in all, Branca is a welcome retreat into the joys of trattoria style eating.
Reviewed by Nathan Wiles |
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